Original: 妍葳雅

The 2nd Academic Conference on Aromatherapy of Chinese Medicine was successfully concluded on October 29, 2018 in Fuzhou, Jiangxi Province.

Dr. Ma Laiji, senior engineer of Shanghai Jahwa and senior expert in basic research of personal care products, combined with his own more than ten years of experience and research experience in this academic conference, the application, development and current status of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics. The issue was shared with the participants.

This article will introduce in detail the dry goods brought by Dr. Ma from the following three parts, to provide practitioners or friends interested in Chinese medicine skin care, beauty and health as a reference for learning.

Chinese medicine has a long history of skin care and treatment of skin diseases. From the earliest "Fifty-two Diseases" to the "Shen Nong's Materia Medica" in the Qin and Han Dynasties, as well as the "Preparation of the Urgent Needs" and the Secrets of the Outer Taiwan in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, "Taiping Shenghui Fang" and "Shengji" in the Song Dynasty The total record, the "Puji Fang" in the Ming Dynasty, "Compendium of Materia Medica", "Ji Zong Jin Jian" in the Qing Dynasty. These books document a large number of cosmetic agents or prescriptions for the treatment of skin diseases. According to expert research, the current Chinese medical literature can sort out more than 5,000 prescriptions.

Therefore, Chinese herbal medicine cosmetics are unique cosmetics in China, and the history is long and natural. It also inherits the essence of traditional Chinese medicine theory and ancient Chinese philosophy. These Chinese herbal cosmetics are based on the holistic view of "Heaven and Man" and recognize the important relationship between human life activities and nature and society. They also emphasize the fusion nature between human and heaven and earth, and pay attention to the coordination of psychology and physiology. Can reach the ultimate realm of health and beauty.

With the continuous improvement of living standards, people pay more and more attention to the environmental protection, safety and naturalness of cosmetics. Traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics are made from Chinese herbal medicines and natural plants. The traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics follow the natural environment and human sustainable development requirements, satisfy people's pursuit of high quality living methods, and conform to the trend of people's individualized and diverse consumption. The trend of green and human return to nature.

As early as 2010, Euromonitor surveyed and analyzed that the market size of China's skin care products is growing at an annual rate of 18.3%, with the growth rate of Chinese herbal skin care products being 61%. The statistical analysis of the year showed that the sales of herbal herbal skin care products in the world had reached 16 billion US dollars, and the annual increase rate was 10-20%!

These information indicate that not only Asian consumers have higher acceptance of traditional Chinese herbal medicines, but also the health concept of consumers in developed countries in Europe and America has changed, and the application of traditional Chinese herbal medicines in cosmetics is emphasized.

Including, international brands have also established “Chinese herbal medicine” research labs, and they are keen to add extracts using Chinese herbal medicines. Major brands under the international companies such as Shiseido, L'Oreal and Estee Lauder, and Amore Pacific have increased their research and development in the field of Chinese herbal medicine.

2017 Cosmetics Mobile Marketing Insight Report

In 2016, the scale of China's cosmetics retail transactions reached 583 billion yuan, a growth rate of 20.4%; in 2017, the global cosmetics market has reached 464.8 billion US dollars; the Chinese market size is 361.6 billion yuan; and it is expected that by 2018, this scale will exceed 800 billion yuan, China's cosmetics market has steadily entered a mature period.

At present, there are more than 500 kinds of Chinese herbal medicines applied in cosmetics in China. The cosmetics of the Chinese herbal medicine concept have a share in the cosmetics market, increasing year by year. The pattern and scale of the national cosmetics industry have reached international standards. Nearly 4,000 companies have obtained cosmetics production licenses in China; the number of domestically produced cosmetics is close to 500,000. This situation has also spawned such well-known brands as herbal medicine, natural tang, beauty skin treasure, Pien Tze Huang, Beijing Tong Ren Tang, Bawang, Ma Yinglong Pharmaceutical, Yunnan Baiyao, Baique Ling and other famous brands in cosmetics.

Modern Chinese herbal cosmetics are formulated under the guidance of traditional Chinese medicine theory. After modern extracts and purification techniques, they are added to specific formula systems and have ideal efficacy cosmetics.

①Skin science complexity

②Limitations of "targeted" treatment

③The superiority of Chinese herbal medicine application

The TCM Aromatherapy Conference was explained by some experts and transformed some of the cosmetics industry's aromatherapy for Chinese medicine only to stay in the superficial understanding that "fragrance is nothing but ‘aromatic pleasure'. They do not understand the essence of Chinese medicine aromatherapy. In fact, Chinese herbal aromatherapy can not only cure the disease, but also solve some "sub-health" status, and can also help people solve "skin problems" and improve people's health and well-being. For example, talking to Mr. Zhou, who is engaged in maternal and child health, mentions that “depression” in perinatal women, as well as common skin changes in women and young children, can be solved by aromatherapy of Chinese medicine.

However, although Chinese medicine aromatherapy and Chinese herbal medicine cosmetics have many advantages, there are still many problems at present.

At present, the application of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics is much more concerned with "concepts".

1 three levels

Level 1 - literature report

Secondary level - the existence of dose-effect relationship in the laboratory

Level 3 - clinical dose-effect relationship

2 two states

a. plant state

b. Herbal status

Some use "plants" instead of "Chinese herbs" because Chinese herbs have a strict "processing process."

①Environmental change

How to inherit the culture of Chinese medicine? After the 1950s, economic development, scientific and technological progress, leading to environmental changes, people's physical fitness, the nature of drugs, etc. have changed, lack of systematic research. How to inherit the traditional Chinese medicine "beauty makeup ancient party"?

②physique differences

In the traditional Chinese medicine culture, "four-time health, physical beauty", changes in individual physiques in different seasons and in different regions, how to achieve "point-to-face"?

③measurable standards

There is still a big difference in the understanding of Chinese herbal cosmetics. However, the regulation of cosmetics in the country or region must have a basis. What is the basis for the quality standards (color, smell, stability, safety, efficacy, etc.) of the “Chinese herbal medicine” in Chinese herbal cosmetics?

④talents

Traditional Chinese medicine technical talents are mainly distributed in universities, hospitals, research institutions, and there are few cosmetic companies, which greatly restricts the development of Chinese herbal cosmetics!

Economic and scientific skills and talent,

Basically meet the development of Chinese herbal cosmetics

①Encourage Chinese medicine talents to join in the beautiful health and wellness business. With the change of medical models, they can also make a difference!

②systematically study the changing laws of skin problems, such as physical relationship, regional relationship, and seasonal relationship.

③concentrating on the technical problems encountered in the application of Chinese herbal medicine in cosmetics: the evaluation criteria of physical and chemical properties, safety and efficacy of Chinese herbal medicine extracts.

④Breaking through traditional thinking, combining “traditional and modern” technologies, analyzing the “advantages” of Chinese herbal medicines and the “advantages” of modern functional raw materials, and strengthening the alliance to maximize the interests of consumers.

⑤From the national, regional or group level, organize relevant technical personnel, not subject to the administrative and academic culture of the organization, and actively carry out "basic research" to create original technological achievements.